Penelope Fletcher Le Masson comes from “an island off an island off Vancouver”. She seems to have been born with a dedication to selling books: before her twentieth birthday, she’d persuaded her father to refit an old henhouse as a moveable bookstore, a brightly painted gyspy caravan which she stocked with second-hand books and set up near the only other store on the island. “But don’t write that, will you?” she asks, blushing. I hope she lets me: she may be shy about her youthful entrepreneurship, but there’s still a bookstore on the Hornby Island site today (though the henhouse is gone), and in Paris, half a planet away, she now runs one of the nicest bookshops I’ve ever visited.
Penelope opened the Red Wheelbarrow in Paris’s Marais district in 2001. It’s a vibrant outlet for both new and backlist books, which are shelved from floor to ceiling and stacked on every available table and chair, and a good portion of the floor. As is the case with many English-language bookstores in Europe, the stock consists of both British and American editions, which makes for a visually stimulating browse.
What really makes the Red Wheelbarrow special, though, is the sense of community that surrounds it. I visited one afternoon last month, and while we talked bookselling and drank ginger beer, a constant stream of people entered both the shop and the conversation: there were tourists looking for guidebooks and leaving with a stack of novels; locals paying their daily visit while walking the dog, friends dropping in to catch up on the gossip of the night before (plenty of readings and other events take place here in the evenings). At one point, an American couple appeared, known regulars by virtue of an annual visit during their vacation. Several times Penelope made introductions among her customers and there was the sense of new friendships being made.
While I left with a book—and would have taken a great deal more if I’d had a fatter wallet that day—it’s not the richly stocked shelves that makes the Red Wheelbarrow special, so much as the role it plays in the local community. It’s good to know that there are still bookshops like this, places where ideas are exchanged and lasting friendships are made, where you can while away the afternoon talking even without the assistance of a coffee concession. It’s the kind of place you’d want to exist if you’d just moved to a new town. Ultimately, it’s also a reminder that independent bookshops like The Red Wheelbarrow can have an importance to the community that even outweighs their importance as bookshops. And that’s saying something.
The Red Wheelbarrow, 22, rue St Paul, 75004 Paris. Tel. 01 4804 7508















September 11th, 2009 at 1:21 pm
I love the Red Wheelbarrow, it’s conveniently located around the corner from our apartment, so I stop by every time I am in Paris.
September 11th, 2009 at 2:02 pm
this looks a great shop what is a dying breed in the uk .I ll have to look it up whenever i m next in paris
September 11th, 2009 at 2:06 pm
Blimey, Stu, I only just realised you have a blog! Am I slow or is it new?
And yes, you should definitely check out the Red Wheelbarrow. It’s a lovely place.
September 13th, 2009 at 1:48 pm
I always like seeing American editions alongside British ones. Or, at least, I like seeing them side-by-side until I realize they start having different titles and different marketing approaches. Then the annoyance comes…
September 16th, 2009 at 2:36 am
Those details may be an annoyance, Biblibio, but isn’t it a treat when you discover that a book you’d thought long out of print – or not heard of at all – is not only in print across the pond, but on a shelf right in front of you?
September 17th, 2009 at 8:03 pm
I visited this wonderful bookstore *twice* during a short visit in December 2009. I bought several books and enjoyed my time within its walls immensely.
October 3rd, 2009 at 3:17 am
What a lovely report on a charming bookstore. Thanks for writing this, Rob! I am enamored with independent bookstores like this; thanks for reminding me what a resource I have right in my own Paris neighborhood.
November 28th, 2009 at 1:44 pm
A very charming bookstore but I have heard that they’re also very bad payers when it comes to poor publishers. But I guess you can’t have everything!